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In San Sebastián, the biggest festival of the year starts at the stroke of midnight on January 20th. The city flag is raised in the main plaza of Old Town to begin La Tamborrada de San Sebastián, the celebration of the city's patron saint, with drum parades and festivities in every neighborhood for the next 24 hours. A tradition dating back to (at least) 1836, today more than 147 companies march through the streets and fill the city with song.
How did such a raucous party come to be? According to Eusko Guide, during the Peninsular War Napoleon took control of the city, his troops banging their drums as they patrolled. Donostiarran women, collecting water for their families at the city's fountains, responded by mocking the occupiers, banging on their buckets in defiance.
Since then the festival has evolved. The famous culinary clubs (sociedades gastronómicas) form many of the bands that now march, the drummers donning chef's garb. Traditional foods are served. And most importantly, for a full 24 hours everyone in the city, young and old, celebrates overcoming tragedy, coming together as one, and happiness for all. Inauteriak datoz! Carnival is coming!
photo credit: Donostia Kultura
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photo credit: San Sebastián Turismo
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What's one of the traditional dishes that accompany these revels? Angulas. Tiny elver eels, warmed lightly in olive oil with a touch of garlic. As authentic angulas are quite expensive to source, the true product is typically reserved for special occasions. Such as this, obviously. Bring a taste of the celebration stateside with a tin or two.
Would you like more information on La Tamborrada? Look no further than this article from award-winning author, trained chef, and industry expert on Spanish and Basque cuisine, Marti Buckley.
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Donostia-San Sebastián, Spain is a beautiful place full of beautiful food and beautiful people. You don't have to take our word for it. You can take our photos for it.
Perambulate the Parte Vieja of Donostia-San Sebastián and sample the pintxos with Tom Mullen, writing for Forbes Magazine.
“There are three secrets to making a good pintxo,” Juan Mari explained. “It must be easy to make, have excellent taste—filled with flavors, and also be elegant.”
Forbes has called it "the best high gastronomy world event", and rightfully so. For four days the culinary conference held in Donostia-San Sebasitan offers lectures, master classes, and other activities that celebrate traditional and innovative cuisine and brings together nearly 70 Michelin stars. For professionals but open to the public, the event is a celebration of food for all, "since in Donostia, a land of culinary treasures, everything revolves around the table."
For more information about this event, going on now, please visit Gastronomika 2016.
